Pia’s AmaWaterways Colombia review of a Magdalena River cruise

In September, 2026, we sent Pia Knarston, one of our Destination Specialists at Viva Expeditions, on a Magdalena River cruise in Colombia. Until AmaWaterways launched two ships on the river in 2025, the river hadn’t seen a single passenger cruise ship in over half a century. So we expected something special. But we hadn’t realised quite how different this trip would be.

Our AmaWaterways Colombia review is built from her thorough notes, which cover everything from life on board to the riverside villages and even what she fit into her itinerary before and after her cruise.

Plenty of well-travelled clients still haven’t heard of the Magdalena, but after reading Pia’s notes, we suspect that won’t last for long.

 

 

"It didn't feel like your normal river cruise. It felt authentically Colombian through and through, and you could tell the local communities are all part of it." — Pia

 

 

Here’s all you’ll discover in this guide:

The trip at a glance

Who is the Magdalena River cruise for?

What makes this cruise unique?

What is life like on board the AmaMelodia?

What are the excursions like on the Magdalena?

When is the best time to sail the Magdalena River?

What should you pack for a Magdalena River cruise?

What can you add before and after the cruise?

Our AmaWaterways Colombia review: Is the Magic of Colombia cruise worth it?

 

 

What does the trip look like at a glance?

Pia joined our Magic of Colombia cruise, which runs year-round. Although the region is in the Caribbean lowlands so doesn’t see huge temperature differences through the months, the level of water on the river does change, and so do humidity levels, depending on when you cruise. Our cruise review gives you one snapshot of what the trip is like in September, one of the most humid months of the year.

 

Detail	Pia's Cruise
Route & length	Barranquilla to Cartagena, 8 days / 7 nights.
Ship	AmaMelodia (32 staterooms, up to 64 guests).
Pace	Easy. Mostly boat rides and short walks.
Main focus	Culture and community, with wildlife as a bonus.
Weather in September	Above 35°C (77°F) and humid, with overnight rain.
Best months to cruise the Magdalena	December to March (the driest months); July and August (a shorter dry spell mid-year). Some September departures, like Pia’s, coincide with the Mompox jazz festival.
English ashore?	Very limited, but the ship's guides are always around to translate.
Touristy?	Not at all, the route remains way off the beaten tourist path.
Works well alongside	Bogotá and Medellín beforehand. The cruise ends in Cartagena so it’s easy to add a few nights there or a beach break on the Rosario Islands.

 

 

 

Who is the Magdalena River cruise for?

This trip is for culture-vultures who've already seen the well-known places and want something that doesn't feel familiar. Pia wants to make it clear that the people and local culture are very much the focus of these cruises. The river scenery is lovely, and there's some nature on the programme, but the week revolves mostly around visiting communities along the river's shore. People having been carving an existence here for at leat 3,000 years so there’s a lot of fascinating history to learn about.

If you’ve done a river cruise in Europe, you’ll undoubtedly notice many differences. On the Danube. you regularly share a town with other ships, and passing vessels are part of the scenery. Here, the AmaMelodia had the river to itself for the entire week.

 

"Most of the villages are hard to reach by road, so few visitors find their way there overland. Given AmaWaterways is the only one offering these cruises, it makes sense we would have it to ourselves. It still came as a surprise, though, as did arriving in Cartagena, Colombia’s party town, and encountering crowds after seven blissfully relaxing days." — Pia

 

 

Pia thinks the cruise would be perfect for curious, open-minded travellers who cope well with tropical heat and humidity and don't mind hearing more Spanish than English ashore. Keep one thing in mind, though, that wildlife is not a major draw of the trip. You can always add our Tayrona National Park extension for more time in nature, but for a proper dose of wildlife-watching, Ecuador’s Amazon and the Galápagos are hard to beat, as Beke’s trip review shows. Non-stop flights from Quito connect to Medellín and Bogotá in under 2 hours.

 

 

What makes this cruise unique?

Most river cruises slot into ports and tours that already exist. On the Magdalena, there was nothing to slot into, so AmaWaterways built its own docks and excursion boats, planning every shore visit with local communities to ensure they were both happy and involved in tourist visits. The result is a cruise created from scratch, and unlike any other river cruise we offer.

We’ve covered the Magdalena’s history and the full route in our guide to what to expect on AmaWaterways’ Colombia river cruises, so here we’ll stick to what Pia personally experienced.

 

Crowdsourced tourism

What struck Pia most was how homegrown the whole operation felt. According to AmaWaterways, both ships were built in Colombia, largely by Colombian workers, and almost all of the crew come from the Magdalena region and the Caribbean coast. Before the first guests arrived, the company held public meetings in riverside town halls so residents could have their say. The results are noticeable and endearing. Village hosts shadow the ship’s guides as part of a training programme, and in places like Santa Barbara de Pinto, the whole community comes out to greet the boat. As Travel Weekly rightly states, that is a far cry from other destinations where locals greet cruise passengers with water guns to show their displeasure.

 

 

What is life like on board the AmaMelodia?

The AmaMelodia takes up to 64 guests and has a crew of around 30, including three guides and a wellness instructor. That’s roughly one crew member for every two guests. Only around 50 were on board alongside Pia and her husband, and the level of personalised service was palpable.

 

"The staff were warm and enthusiastic, and they quickly noticed what each guest enjoyed doing. Plus, they memorized our names within a few hours and always used them. It made you feel very welcome and at home."

— Pia

 

The cabins

Pia’s stateroom had what AmaWaterways calls a twin balcony: a French balcony plus a small outdoor one. She barely used the outdoor balcony in September, as the midday heat and humidity made sitting out there hard work.

Inside, she had plenty of room. There was a desk she could work from and space under the bed for both suitcases, and the bed itself was very comfortable. She loved the big bathroom with his and hers basins. Bathrobes and good slippers were waiting too, and the crew topped up her still and sparkling water every day, sometimes twice.

Pia’s only gripe was the toilet flush, which was loud enough that she could sometimes hear the one next door or upstairs too. Pack ear plugs if you’re a light sleeper.

 

 

 

The food

It is often said that everyone has a favourite meal onboard a cruise and for Pia that turned out to be breakfast. Eggs cooked any way you liked, and a buffet that included local arepas alongside the usual breads and cheeses. The fruit table was the star, though, with eight to ten tropical and traditional fruits each morning and one or two swapped for a new variety every day.

 

 

 

Lunch and dinner were both à la carte, with a soup and salad buffet at lunchtime and usually a choice of desserts. One touch Pia loved: before dinner, every dish on the menu was set out at the restaurant entrance, and the head of service talked guests through each one. Argentinian red and white wines were poured with both meals. Gracias.

 

 

Where you'll spend your time on board

Most of Pia’s downtime was spent on the top deck, the Luna Deck. Mornings started with a wellness class out on deck, from yoga to meditation, and one day Pia joined an outdoor painting workshop which she really liked. A pool, small gym and the massage room are also on this deck.

In the evenings, the lounge bar is where Sip and Sail, the complimentary drinks hour, kicks off about an hour before dinner, followed by expert talks and entertainment. A few meals move outside onto the deck during the week, and Pia loved the special Bolívar dinner under the evening sky.

 

 

The evening entertainment

The week began with a carnival performance out on deck, and later on, musicians from the river towns came aboard for a drumming and cumbia session. On another evening, a jazz duo set a gentler mood. There was a disco night too, but karaoke was Pia’s favourite, mostly because the crew joined in. Between the music nights, the guides gave talks on everything from beginners’ Spanish to the stories of the Magdalena, and one on Colombian magic realism told through books and music.

 

 

What are the excursions like on the Magdalena?

Each evening, the cruise manager explains the next day's options and checks who wants to do what. You can sign up in advance on the AmaWaterways app, but Pia found it wasn't necessary, good news if you prefer to go with the flow each day.

Guests split into small groups, each with one of the ship's guides, plus a local guide who joined at each stop. Some of these guides spoke English well, and some didn't, so the ship's guide stepped in to translate where needed. The trip is not physically demanding and doesn't require a high level of fitness. Most outings are a boat ride followed by a short walk around a town or village. The one longer hike was a gentle 3 km (2 miles), though the humidity made it a challenge for some guests.

 

 

Pia's highlight from the river

Some of Pia’s favourite moments came on the river itself, at either end of the day. A dawn nature cruise turned out to be one of the most peaceful and enjoyable outings of the week, with birds all along the banks, and an evening boat trip gave her the chance to watch fishermen at work as the light faded.

Interesting fact: Local Magdalena River fishermen still cast their atarraya, a hand-thrown net their families have used for generations, from wooden canoes. Cruises include a net-weaving demonstration in Santa Barbara de Pinto.

 

 

Mompox, a UNESCO-listed colonial town on an island in the river, was another favourite. Pia's visit coincided with the town's annual jazz festival, so music drifted out of every street and churchyard. Cruise guests are also invited to try their hand at filigree, the fine silver jewellery Mompox is known for.

 

"Making the filigree jewellery myself gave me an appreciation of how difficult this art is." — Pia

 

 

 

In Calamar, Pia and fellow guests were pedalled through the market on a paola (a pedal-powered tuk-tuk), which gave them a front-row view of the town's morning rush. And in Santa Barbara de Pinto, the traditional fishing hub, the village children were endlessly curious about their visitors, with the afternoon ending in dancing.

 

FYI: The lower Magdalena is very much a living, working river, lined with farms and fishing villages, so you won’t find big animals along the banks. Birdlife is the big exception, and Pia spotted birds every day. Caimans turned up now and then, and one otter made an appearance.

 

 

When is the best time to sail the Magdalena River?

Since you will be exploring low-lying tropical side of Colombia, heat is something you should expect no matter when you go. Pia sailed in early September, when temperatures reached 35°C, with high humidity. Shore visits are timed for the cooler parts of the day, and the hottest hours are usually spent on board, in the comfort of the air-conditioned indoors or cooling in the pool.

We mentioned that water levels can affect the trip and Pia experienced this in September, when the Magdalena was running unusually low after a very dry summer spell. The AmaMelodia couldn't reach every stop, but the crew pivoted quickly and ferried every guest ashore on the boats, so no stop was skipped. Pia was impressed by how smoothly the last-minute change went.

As mentioned, December to March is generally the best time for cruising the Magdalena, and July and August can work well too. The rest of the year tends to be wetter, though on Pia’s sailing the rain mostly fell overnight so the shoulder months can also work well. For a wider view of the seasons across the continent, see our guide to the best time to visit South America.

 

 

What should you pack for a Magdalena River cruise?

The AmaMelodia dress code is casual, and Pia felt she packed the right kind of clothing. A few items made a difference:

• Very light clothing: breathable fabrics make the heat far easier to handle, and you'll want a fresh change after most excursions.

• A cardigan or shawl: the air conditioning makes the lounge very cold, which is a shock after the heat outside.

• A small, very light daypack: Pia's slightly thicker backpack made the heat worse and her back sweaty, so go for the thinnest one you own.

• Binoculars: Pia used hers only a few times, but they were still worth bringing. The ship has some to share, though not a pair for every guest.

• A few Spanish phrases: Pia speaks Spanish and used it everywhere, so even the basics will help you connect with the people you meet.

 

 

What can you add before and after the cruise?

Pia spent two weeks in total in Colombia, starting with a shortened version of our Signature Colombia tour before flying to Barranquilla to join the Magdalena River cruise. Before the cruise, Pia spent a couple of days in both Bogotá and Medellín, and since the cruise starts in Barranquilla and finishes in Cartagena, she added two days to the end port town as well.

 

A quick overview of the experience.

Bogotá and Medellin

In Bogotá, Pia spent two nights at the B3 Virrey, a well-located four-star with a great breakfast and double glazing that kept the main road quiet. In Medellín, she had three nights at the Sites Hotel, with breakfast served by the rooftop pool. The city’s mild climate was a pleasant surprise, and so was Comuna 13, which she found far busier and louder than she’d expected. She also inspected the Wake Biohotel and the boutique Quinta Ladera, so ask us if you’d like an alternative.

 

“The day trip to Guatapé was well worth it. Climbing the 740 stairs to the top of La Piedra del Peñol proved to be another highlight. The view was amazing!" — Pia.

 

 

 

Cartagena

Two nights at the Hotel Santa Catalina wrapped up the trip. Pia liked its location and rooftop pool, close to the old town which is best explored on foot. A day at San Pedro de Majagua on Isla Grande, in the Rosario Islands, made a welcome break from the sticky city streets, with lunch included and a choice of lively or quieter beaches. She also dropped in to inspect Casa Don Luis by Faranda and Hotel Bantú by Faranda, two five-star options, so if you want to have an upgrade at the end of the trip, let us know.

 

Pia’s tip: if you are visiting Cartagena after the cruise, feel free to skip the food tasting tour. After a week of tasting your way down the river, she found it poor value.

 

 

 

→ Browse our Colombia tours for ideas, we'll happily tailor an itinerary around your Magdalena sailing.

 

 

Our AmaWaterways Colombia review: Is the Magic of Colombia cruise worth it?

For the right traveller, yes. Viva Expeditions recommends the AmaWaterways Magic of Colombia cruise for well-travelled guests who want a culture-led river trip through Colombia's Caribbean lowlands and are comfortable with tropical heat.

In comfort terms, this is a luxury river cruise: the ship is well run, and the food is excellent. The experience itself is more pioneering than polished, since many of the towns had never hosted tourists before AmaWaterways arrived and some of the village guides are still finding their feet. Overall, it is comfortable and even luxurious but in a remote and authentic corner of Colombia.

Pia thinks that seasoned travellers will love the cruise.

 

"I didn't quite know what to expect, but I absolutely enjoyed the focus on local culture and the people. The Magdalena offers a week of Colombian hospitality that very few visitors have yet to experience. We felt very welcome and safe at all times." — Pia.

 

Her only regret? Working between excursions. Next time, Pia says she'd leave the laptop at home and spend more time outside, lounging on the top deck and watching the world go by.

 

→ Get in touch with Pia or one of our Destination Specialists and come and experience Colombia's Magdalena River for yourself.

Laura Pattara Laura Pattara writes for Viva Expeditions with a special love for all things Latin America. She had guided overland tours across the continent, reached Machu Picchu five times on foot, and even dressed up as a giant toucan for Carnaval. With a degree in languages and two decades of global travel experience behind her, Laura has a long-standing love for the Andes, soaring condors, and a truly delicious empanada.